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Electric Bike Solutions utilizes its own manufacturer that provides systems for many large electric bike kit and electric bicycle retailers. This manufacturer has been tested and used by Electric Bike Solutions, LLC for five years now. We are so confident in the complete setup that we warranty everything for one year from date of purchase. Always check the details of the warranty others offer. The majority do not live up to the warranty standard we have set. On the rare occasion that there is a problem after one year, we work at the lowest cost possible to correct any problem/concern you might have.The motor kits provide many flexible options. Most notably is that all parts are interchangeable and they operate at either 36 volts or 48 volts; the kits are plug-and play between batteries. The batteries have been carefully selected after much research by Electric Bike Solutions LLC into overseas markets for them. Many suppliers were tested at significant expense and two styles from the best manufacturers were selected: 1) rear rack mount 36V and 48V models, 2) 36V frame mount tube model.
This one page guide is meant to quickly address some common questions and provide real time updates to you, the customer, when the kit is delivered.
The 36v or 48v/52V electric bicycle lithium battery is the most expensive part of your kit, please treat it well. To break-in the battery ride it 5-8 miles for the first 5 uses and fully charge it after each ride; this will allow the cells to balance. All styles will last longer if charged regularly and after each ride. Never let the battery sit discharged; charge it soon after each use. Don’t let it sit unused for long periods of time; they liked to be used periodically. When charging, plug the charger into the the battery charge port first and then into the wall outlet. Charger will have a red light when charging and a green light when charging is complete. Unplug the charger from both the battery and wall in any order when charging is complete. It can stay plugged in overnight, but should not be left hooked-up for extended periods; this may damage the cells. For batteries with a key switch, when the key is parallel to the ground it is on, one click counter-clockwise and it is off. There is a locking pin on the bottom of the battery that goes into a sliding plate. To remove or install the battery from the plate the key must be pushed in and turned counter-clockwise one more click from the off position. For tube batteries the on/off switch is on the bottom of the battery. Tube batteries come with a short jumper out of the bottom of it so that you do not have to unscrew it from the battery. There is a longer jumper that extends to the controller and allows you to disconnect the battery from it. Important: Lithium batteries for electric bicycle kits have a circuit board in them to maximize the utilization and lifespan of the cells it contains. The case for ours is water resistant, but heavy doses of rain will seep in and affect the circuitry. Please cover the battery well in wet conditions. Water will not usually ruin the circuit board, but it must be dried and cleaned, which can be a logistics hassle.
Pay close attention to the spacing between the motor and your forks. If more clearance is needed, turn the thick notched washers with the tab around so the tab faces away from the motor. Standard washers, when used as a spacer, will bend over the axle ridges when tightened and rub against the motor. The brake motor cut-off lever assemblies do not have to be attached for the system to work, but they are a very good added safety feature; please try to use them if possible. They are absolutely necessary with our new cruise control feature. Important: never reverse the black and red leads of the battery with the controller (black must be to black and red to red); the battery will win the war if the polarity is reversed and the controller will be damaged. The throttle lights are simply voltage indicators. The best way to determine battery level for any system is with a cycle analyst, which reads amp hours. Contact us if you would like to know where to purchase one.
Best Practices for the Longevity of your electric kit System
– Level 5 is a notable jump from Level 4. Level 5-9 are fine on level terrain and for getting over the last short stretch of a steep incline. However, continuous use with the max wattage available on long steep climbs is hard on the system and could cause premature failure. It is much better to just gear your bike down and go slower in a lower assist level. You will also realize more distance per charge. Lots of customers report 45+ miles per charge at level one which still provides great assist.
– Always go by voltage level measured when the system is in use. The bars may not tell you much. Under use, the system will shut off at about 41V with a 52V battery and 30V with a 36V (either voltage battery is plug and play with our systems). Reading the voltage when not using the motor will not tell you what is available. Voltage climbs when the battery is at rest.
– The battery likes to be used on a regular basis; however, if it needs to be stored for more than a few weeks it is better to run it down to the 53V level and 37V resting level (not in use) respectively. It will shorten the life of the battery stored at the full charge without use. It is also better to not always run the battery to the cutoff level. The battery will last longer if generally only run down about 80% under load/use. This means about 45-46V for 52V system and 33V-34V for 36V system.
Please take your time and contact us with any questions that you have. The setup will provide you with many years of enjoyment when properly put together and maintained.